Whatever form they take, dumplings make you want to inhale as many as you can, one after another, stopping only to swipe through more sauce or exhale a dragon puff of steam. Eating them feels like tearing open gifts — but better. The wrapping is as amazing as what’s inside, and biting through it delivers a rush of satisfaction at the taste of something new.
For some, dumplings symbolize fortune for the Year of the Horse ahead. For everyone, they’re the best party food of any season (and make any regular meal feel like a party). Not to mention, in the late trudge of winter and amid the renewal of the Lunar New Year on Tuesday, they’re what we all want.
In our second annual Dumpling Week, a celebration of the most sublime savory bites, we’re continuing to honor dumpling traditions with recipes that embrace the creativity the form inspires. After all, they’ve traveled the globe and evolved in the hands of cooks for more than 1,500 years. We’re continuing that journey with these morsels.
The dumplings highlighted here were created by longtime New York Times Cooking recipe developers, built on classic foundations and tiered with seasonings and techniques adopted over years of tasting, pinching and pleating dumplings with family and friends. We’ve drawn from experiences beyond our own homes and cultural traditions to stuff, seal and sauce original dumplings that reflect our embrace of tastes from around the world.
Read on to find out more about each recipe, and to guide you as you form the four different shapes at home. They’re as fun to make as they are to eat, and there’s no better time to start than now.
Keep It Traditional …
The Pork and Garlic-Chive Potstickers are Sue Li’s version of traditional pan-fried dumplings that she would buy from a stand at the base of Elephant Mountain, a popular spot in Taipei, Taiwan, after early morning hikes. The simple ground pork filling is flavorful and juicy thanks to garlic chives, a wide, flat variety with a strong garlic flavor and leeklike texture.
… or Go Untraditional
A savory filling is at the center of our Wang Mandu, or King Dumplings. The sweet, fluffy buns are called “king,” or “wang” in Korean — for their size, and not any royal status. The beef, mushroom and onion within this version from Eric Kim are not traditional, but together, taste familiar, like a good burger. A quick, salty-sweet soy-sauce pickle of red onion and jalapeno is a vibrant dipping sauce.
Make It Vegetarian …
Eaten in Turkey, Armenia and across Central Asia, manti are typically meat-filled dumplings, which can be boiled, steamed or baked. Hetty Lui McKinnon’s vegetarian manti is inspired by the Turkish version, here filled with herby mushrooms and served with a sharp, garlicky yogurt and a spiced tomato sauce. While traditional manti are small and made with a flour, egg and olive oil dough, this recipe uses the shortcut of store-bought wonton wrappers, resulting in a more conventionally sized dumpling.
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Trade between China and Thailand began centuries ago, and with it came the commingling of people, culture and cuisine. In Genevieve Ko’s recipe for Thai Basil Chicken Dumplings, the signature hot, sour, salty and sweet flavor profiles of Thai food take the form of super-savory dumplings with a chile-spiked dipping sauce. Formed into little round patties, these resemble a pan-fried dim sum dumpling filled with garlic chives.
Recipe: Pork and Garlic-Chive Potstickers
This is my version of a traditional pan-fried dumpling that I buy from a stand at the base of Elephant Mountain, a popular spot in Taipei, Taiwan, after early morning hikes. I always make that pit stop because they are so good. The simple ground-pork filling is flavorful and juicy thanks to garlic chives, a wide, flat variety with a strong garlic flavor and leek-like texture. There isn’t an easy substitute for the garlic chives, but they are readily available at East Asian grocery stores. Making your own dumpling wrappers requires a bit of practice — and a wooden dowel, a small, thin rolling pin that provides you with better control when rolling the wrappers. You could also use store-bought wrappers, but the extra effort really pays off with a slightly chewy and tender texture, and the bonus of knowing you made the dumplings entirely from scratch.
By Sue Li
Yield: About 56 dumplings
Total time: About 3 1/2 hours, plus 4 hours’ dough resting
Special equipment: a wooden dowel (8 to 9 inches long) for rolling dumpling wrappers
Ingredients:
For the dumpling wrappers (see Tips):
4 cups (540 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 2 teaspoons baking powderFor the filling:
1 1/2 pounds ground pork 1 large bunch garlic chives (8 ounces), trimmed and cut into about 1/4-inch pieces (about 3 cups chopped) 1 large egg, lightly beaten 3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons sugar Kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal Vegetable oil, for frying For serving: Rice vinegar Soy saucePreparation:
1. Prepare the dumpling wrappers (see Tips to use store-bought wrappers): Whisk together flour and baking powder in a large mixing bowl. Add 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold tap water and stir with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula to combine. Keep the dough in the bowl and use your hands to knead it until all of the shaggy pieces of dough come together. The result does not have to be smooth, since the dough will absorb the water and become softer as it sits — you just need to make sure the dry flour bits have been incorporated. Wrap the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for at least 4 hours or overnight.
2. While the dough rests, prepare the filling: Combine the pork, garlic chives, egg, sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar and 2 teaspoons salt in a large mixing bowl. Mix to combine with a wooden spoon. Cover and refrigerate until ready to make the dumplings.
3. Once the dough has rested for at least 4 hours, on a clean surface (lightly dusted with flour if the dough seems sticky), pat the dough into a rough rectangle and cut into 4 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a log about 14 inches long and then cut each into 1-inch lengths. If needed, dust the dough with a generous amount of flour and toss to coat. Repeat with the remaining dough, covering it with plastic wrap as you proceed. You should have about 56 pieces of dough.
4. To roll the wrappers, working with one piece at a time, press the dough down onto the work surface using the palm of your hand, then press into a 1- to 2-inch circle. Using a wooden dowel, start at the edge of the dough and roll to the center and back out. Rotate the dough and repeat, working your way around the circle, until the dough is about 4 inches in diameter. Set aside your dumpling wrapper on a lightly floured surface, loosely covered with plastic wrap, and repeat with a few more pieces, then proceed to make some dumplings.
5. To fold the dumplings, take a wrapper and place it in the palm of your hand. Spoon a rounded tablespoon of the filling into the center and fold the dumpling in half (you should have about 1/4 inch of space surrounding the filling at the edge of the wrapper). Using your fingertips, make pleats to seal the filling inside the dough. There is no right or wrong way to pleat a dumpling. An easy way to start is first fold it in half around the filling, creating a half-moon shape. Then, press the edges together at the top-center of the seam to seal. Now start to make small folds on either side of the center point until the entire seam is pleated.
6. Place each formed dumpling on a flour-dusted plate or tray and repeat with remaining wrappers and filling, keeping them draped with a sheet of plastic wrap to prevent them from drying out. Continuing to work in small batches, roll out a few more wrappers and make more dumplings. (To freeze the dumplings, see Tips.)
7. To cook the dumplings: Heat a medium lidded skillet on medium-low. Add 1 tablespoon oil, place 10 to 12 dumplings in the pan, add 1/4 cup water, cover the pan and steam-fry the dumplings, untouched, 8 to 9 minutes, until the bottoms are golden brown and the skins are slightly puffed up. Remove and repeat with more oil, water and dumplings, wiping out the pan between batches as needed if the oil is becoming too dark.
8. Serve the dumplings immediately, with a combination of rice vinegar and soy sauce (mixed to taste) for dipping.
Tips:
You can also use store-bought wrappers, which may be smaller than the homemade versions. Use less filling and dab a little bit of water on the edges of the wrappers to help seal them.
Make ahead: To freeze the dumplings, prepare them through the end of Step 6. Arrange them in a single layer on a large plate or tray, cover with plastic wrap and freeze for about 1 hour. When they’re firm, you can transfer them to a zip-top freezer bag and freeze for up to 3 months. No need to thaw if cooking from frozen.
Recipe: Wang Mandu (King Dumplings)
Wang mandu, which translates to “king dumplings,” is just a reference to the dumplings’ size, rather than any royal status. A fluffy sweet bun is the perfect parcel for the savory beef, mushroom and onion filling, which is not traditionally Korean but tastes familiar, like a good burger. You could also fill these buns with pork, garlic chives and dangmyeon, tender glass noodles made with sweet potato starch; or tofu and finely chopped vegetables, plump with vegetal umami. A quick, salty-sweet soy-sauce pickle of red onion and jalapeno is a vibrant dipping sauce for these rich and satisfying dumplings.
By Eric Kim
Yield: 9 large dumplings
Total time: 1 hour 45 minutes, plus 1 1/2 to 2 hours’ proofing
Ingredients:
For the mandu wrappers:
1 cup warm water (100 to 110 degrees) 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon canola or sunflower oil 1 teaspoon active dry yeast 3 cups (390 grams) all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon kosher saltFor the beef filling:
1 tablespoon canola or sunflower oil 4 large shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and finely chopped 1/2 medium red onion, finely chopped 1/2 large jalapeno, seeded and finely chopped Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and freshly ground black pepper 8 ounces ground beef (preferably 20% fat) 1 teaspoon gochugaru (see Tip) 2 teaspoons soy sauce ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Pinch of sugar 1 large egg yolkFor the dipping sauce:
1/2 medium red onion, cut into large chunks 1/2 large jalapeno, cut into large chunks 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 1 tablespoon soy sauce Pinch of sugarPreparation:
1. Make the mandu wrappers: Add the warm water, sugar, oil and yeast to a liquid measuring cup and stir to dissolve. Set aside until lightly foamy on top, about 5 minutes. Add the flour and salt to a large mixing bowl, then, using chopsticks, stir in the yeast mixture until combined.
2. Using clean hands, knead the dough directly in the bowl until smooth and less sticky, 5 to 7 minutes. In other words, use the heel of your hand to push the dough away from you then pull it back onto itself, like you’re repeatedly folding it in half.
3. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough proof in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
4. Meanwhile, make the filling: Heat a large skillet over medium. Add the oil, followed by the mushrooms, onion and jalapeno. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes.
5. Scooch the vegetables to one side of the pan and add the beef in an even layer to the empty side of the pan, smashing it down for maximum contact with the pan. Cook the beef undisturbed to let it caramelize like a burger on a griddle, about 1 minute, then stir it into the vegetables, breaking it up. Cook the mixture, stirring occasionally, until the beef is no longer pink, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in the gochugaru, then turn off the heat.
6. Stir in the soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce and sugar, then taste for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper until delicious. Transfer this hot mixture into a medium mixing bowl to cool slightly, then stir in the egg yolk.
7. Make the dipping sauce: In a small bowl, stir together the onion, jalapeno, vinegar, soy sauce, sugar and 1 tablespoon water and set aside until ready to eat.
8. When the dough is doubled in size, punch it down, then divide it into 9 equal pieces (about 70 grams each). To form a bun, on a clean surface roll one piece into a ball, then flatten it with your palm. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough piece into a round as thin as you can (around 5 to 6 inches in diameter), keeping the center slightly thicker than the edges. Add 2 tablespoons of the cooled beef filling to the center and bring the edges up and around the filling, one edge at a time, pinching as you go around until your bun is completely sealed. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
9. Fill a wok or wide-bottomed pan (large enough to fit your steamer) with 2 to 3 inches of water. Bring to a simmer, then adjust heat to medium-low. Line your steamer, either bamboo or metal, with parchment. Arrange the buns in the steamer, spacing about an inch apart, and steam them, covered, until the dough is soft, fluffy and bouncy to the touch, 20 to 25 minutes. You may need to steam them in batches, as they are large. Serve with the dipping sauce.
Tip:
Gochugaru, a flavorful Korean red-pepper powder, ranges from a fine dust to tiny coarse flakes. Try to buy the coarse variety, for deeper, sweeter flavor. You can find gochugaru at Korean and other Asian supermarkets and at many grocery stores, as well as online.
Recipe: Mushroom Manti With Garlic Yogurt and Tomato Sauce
Eaten in Turkey, Armenia and across Central Asia, manti are typically meat-filled dumplings, which can be boiled, steamed or baked, and they’re served with a variety of sauces ranging from yogurt and sour cream to melted butter and spiced tomato sauce. The name is said to be derived from the Chinese word mantou, a meat-filled bun (though today, mantou usually refers to a plain steamed white bun). This vegetarian manti is inspired by the Turkish version, here filled with herby mushrooms, and served with a sharp garlicky yogurt and a spiced tomato sauce. While traditional manti are small and made with a flour-egg-olive oil dough, this recipe uses the shortcut of wonton wrappers, resulting in a more conventionally sized dumpling. You could use just one type of mushroom, but employing a variety will add more chew and texture (fresh shiitakes combined with creamy creminis make an excellent pairing). Prep a large batch and freeze for future meals (see Tip below).
By Hetty Lui McKinnon
Yield: 24 manti
Total time: 1 hour
Ingredients:
For the mushroom manti:
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced 12 ounces mushrooms such as cremini, button or shiitake (or use a mixture), trimmed and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Salt and black pepper 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (pul biber) or crushed red pepper 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley, plus leaves for serving 24 (3-inch) square wonton wrappers (from a 12-ounce package)For the garlicky yogurt:
2 cups (16 ounces) plain Greek yogurt 2 garlic cloves, grated 2 teaspoons saltFor the spiced tomato sauce:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 (14-ounce) can crushed tomatoes 1 teaspoon dried mint 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (pul biber) or crushed red pepper (or more to taste) 1/2 teaspoon saltPreparation:
1. Prepare the filling for the manti: Heat a medium (10-inch) skillet on medium-high for 1 minute. Add olive oil and onion and cook, stirring, until slightly softened, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and garlic, season with 1 teaspoon of salt and a big pinch of black pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the moisture has cooked out of the mushrooms and they start to caramelize and stick to the pan, 6 to 7 minutes. Turn off the heat. Add the soy sauce, Aleppo pepper and parsley and stir to combine. Check seasoning and add more salt if needed. Set aside to cool.
2. Make the garlicky yogurt: To a small bowl, add the yogurt, garlic and salt. Stir to combine.
3. Make the spiced tomato sauce: Place a medium pot on medium heat. Add the oil, tomatoes, dried mint, Aleppo pepper and salt and heat until it simmers. Stir, reduce heat to low and leave to bubble gently for 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, prepare a workstation for the manti: Add some water to a small bowl. Wet a kitchen towel and wring out the water; use the damp towel to cover the open packet of wonton wrappers.
5. Place one wonton wrapper in the palm of your hand and thoroughly wet all 4 edges with water (make sure there are no dry spots around the edges). Add 2 teaspoons of the mushroom filling to the center of the wrapper and then bring two opposite corners toward the center. Repeat with the remaining two opposite corners to form a pyramid, and press the seams together firmly to seal, expelling any air pockets. Squeeze the tip of the manti to make sure it is sealed too.
6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Working in batches, drop a few manti in the water and once they float to the top, cook for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Remove with a large spider strainer or slotted spoon and place them on a plate. Continue cooking the remaining manti.
7. To serve, divide the garlicky yogurt across four plates, top with the manti and spoon over some of the spiced tomato sauce. Drizzle with olive oil and scatter a few parsley leaves on top.
Tip:
Manti can be made ahead of time and frozen. Place the manti on a parchment paper-lined tray or plate and then put them in the freezer until the exterior hardens, about 30 minutes. Remove from the tray and store in a resealable freezer bag or airtight container for up to 3 months. Boil from frozen.
Recipe: Thai Basil Chicken Dumplings With Rice Paper Wrappers
Trade between China and Thailand began centuries ago and with it came the commingling of people, culture and cuisine. Here, the signature hot, sour, salty, sweet flavor profile of Thai food takes the form of super-savory dumplings with a chile-spiked dipping sauce. Formed into little round patties, these resemble a pan-fried dim sum dumpling filled with garlic chives. The filling is encased in rice paper wrappers (see Tip) because I didn’t have time to buy fresh dumpling wrappers and my local store only carried these dried sheets. They worked beautifully and not only echo the use of wide rice noodles in Thai and Chinese dishes — think pad see ew and beef chow fun — but are also a wonderful pantry ingredient to keep on hand for other recipes. The chicken filling ends up juicy thanks to plenty of napa cabbage and Thai basil in the blend and becomes even more flavorful when dipped into the sauce. Be sure to divide the sauce among individual dishes so everyone can double dip.
By Genevieve Ko
Yield: 40 dumplings
Total time: 1 hour 35 minutes
Ingredients:
For the sauce:
1/2 cup soy sauce 6 tablespoons sugar 6 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 2 to 10 bird’s-eye chiles (depending on your heat preference), thinly sliced (see Tips) 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeledFor the dumplings:
1 pound napa cabbage, cored and finely chopped 2 medium shallots, finely chopped 2 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), divided 2 cups basil leaves, preferably Thai basil 2 garlic cloves 1 bird’s-eye or serrano chile 1 pound ground chicken, preferably dark meat (92% or 93% lean) 2 tablespoons fish sauce 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12 (8- to 9-inch) round dried rice paper wrappers (see Tips) Grapeseed or canola oil, for shallow fryingPreparation:
1. Make the sauce: Heat the soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, chiles and garlic in a small saucepan over medium, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and divide the sauce among small sauce dishes or bowls. (The chiles and garlic are not meant to be eaten, but impart their flavor to the sauce.)
2. Prepare the dumplings: Toss the cabbage and shallots with 2 teaspoons salt in a colander and set in the sink to drain for 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, chop the basil, then very finely chop the garlic and chile (seeded if desired, for mild heat). Combine in a large bowl and add the chicken, fish sauce, sugar, cornstarch, black pepper and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt.
4. Using your hand, squeeze the cabbage mixture in the colander to remove as much liquid as possible. Add to the bowl with the chicken, then mix all the ingredients with your hand until very well blended.
5. Set up an assembly line: Fill a large, wide bowl or pie plate with room-temperature water and place it next to the package of rice paper wrappers. Set a cutting board and sharp kitchen scissors next to that, then place the bowl of filling, a spoon and a sheet pan lined with parchment paper next to that. Set a paper towel-lined rack next to the stove.
6. Dip a rice paper wrapper in the water to evenly wet it; it should be barely pliable. Use the scissors to cut it in quarters and space each quarter apart on the cutting board. Put a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of each quarter and pat the filling into a 1 1/2-inch round (scant 1/2 inch tall). Pull the sides of the wrapper over the filling to encase it completely, overlapping the wrapper on top. It’s OK if a wrapper completely sticks to itself or tears apart and you have to throw it away; that’s why you have extras. Place the wrapped dumplings on the prepared sheet pan, spacing an inch apart. Repeat with the remaining filling and wrappers.
7. Pan-fry in batches: Heat a large nonstick or very well seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add enough oil to coat the bottom to an 1/8-inch depth. When it shimmers and slides, carefully add some of the dumplings, spacing them an inch apart. Don’t crowd the pan. Cook until the bottoms are browned, 2 to 3 minutes, then flip carefully and cook until the other sides are opaque, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer to the paper towel-lined rack. Repeat with the remaining dumplings, wiping out the skillet and replacing and reheating the oil as needed. Lower the heat if the wrappers brown too quickly; some wrappers may not brown.
8. Serve hot or warm with the dipping sauce. Rice wrappers are quite sticky, so space the dumplings apart on the serving plate.
Tips:
Bird’s-eye chiles, sometimes labeled Thai chiles, are red or green little peppers that pack a lot of heat for their size. Beyond contributing spiciness, red ones have a fruitiness and green ones taste a little vegetal. To enjoy their complexity of flavor with hardly any heat, you can cut a slit in a single chile to simmer with the sauce. If you can’t find these small chiles, substitute other very hot chiles, such as serrano for a green taste or habanero for a fruity one.
Dried rice paper rounds are known as bánh tráng in Vietnamese and now are also made by companies that label them dried spring roll wrappers. They can be found online, among other Asian ingredients in many general supermarkets and at Asian groceries. Vietnamese brands tend to be thinner and may tear more easily, but also come in larger packs, so you can simply start over if the paper tears too much.
Make ahead: The dumplings can be assembled (through Step 6), then spaced an inch apart on a parchment paper-lined plate or pan and frozen until very firm. Once the dumplings are hard, transfer to a resealable freezer bag and freeze for up to 3 months. Cook as in Step 7, but cover the pan with a lid as ice crystals will cause the hot oil to splatter.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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