What’s Not to Like about Cahuita?
As a relatively new expatriate to the amazing country of Costa Rica, I am beyond elated to have been divinely directed to this beautiful land. My charming hometown of Cahuita, located in the Talamanca district and approximately 25 miles south of Limón, is attractive to a diverse population of foreigners seeking civility, peace, and a much simpler life. The Central Valley (San José) and Puerto Viejo areas are also gems, but these locales come with a city vibe that more often resonates with those who want more activity and action in their lives. Cahuita doesn’t speak to your brain’s restlessness, but rather to your heart, which seeks calm.
I truly enjoy riding and walking the main streets of Cahuita. Situated on the coast of the Caribbean Sea, this small village was first settled by Afro-Caribbeans and maintains much of the Black culture of Jamaica. People describe the Talamanca region as a place in Costa Rica where various races come together with a clear admiration for the food, music, and dance of Black people. Native Afro-descendants are not naïve to the global and institutional manifestations of white supremacy, though. Our identity and being are constantly under threat everywhere. With that obviously disturbing reality, I assert that I have found no organized, public community efforts to erase Blackness in this village. So, what’s not to like about Cahuita?
Living in Cahuita is an oasis of sorts for me. The kindness and quietness of its residents are refreshing. Thoughts and dialogue about what the current U.S. administration is doing, has done, and plans to do are limited. Are we ignorant of what is happening? No. We simply don’t want to waste precious moments after having made the very conscious decision to move to a country that brings us so much joy and contentment. We want to age well. Plus, who has the time or energy to fill one’s mind with negativity and disappointment when there are butterflies, birds, and beasts that one can generally only see through the lens of National Geographic, environmentalist publications, or other nature-loving platforms? The magnificent wildlife and flora of Costa Rica soothe the body and mind so thoroughly that a natural high becomes the daily craving. And yet, my blood pressure does rise a bit when I think about my Cahuita challenges.
Challenge #1 – Uncaring or Clueless Dog Owners
“Dogs should be allowed as much liberty as they can responsibly handle. The greatest gift of training is that it increases the dog’s ability to handle liberty.” — C. Mackin
This topic is a sensitive one because there are so many animal lovers here in Cahuita. And who doesn’t want a dog to enjoy the freedom of a beach walk after being confined at home? The challenge is that there are also people who don’t like animals that approach unexpectedly with excitement or trepidation (i.e., the dog is afraid and wants to smell you). Some dog owners walk the beach carefree, without a sense of concern that their dog is causing trauma to another walker or jogger who is trying to relax, stay in shape, or relish nature.
Last week, I had three unleashed dogs race up to me while the owner was at least 75 yards away, preoccupied with taking pictures of her fourth dog! I am sure I join many others in not wanting to channel my angst in a way that would cause harm to the pooch. I grew up with German Shepherds and enjoy the companionship of dogs. However, I also understand the reality of Cahuita residents who have experienced a traumatic event related to a roaming dog or who are simply not comfortable being sniffed. For the life of me, I can’t grasp how some humans refuse to believe that an animal with teeth won’t ever bite. Train dogs for a healthier Cahuita!
Challenge #2 – Potholes on Beach Road
With any degree of sanity, there is no way I could bring my U.S. expectations of transportation to life in Cahuita. However, I must note a road that parallels the sea and has become a nightmare for walkers, bikers, and motor vehicles alike. Since my arrival, Beach Road has gotten much worse. Loose gravel, rocks, and stones cause skidding, wear and tear on tires, flying debris, and loss of vehicular control. The craters can be a foot deep and several feet wide.
This municipal oversight—or mismanagement—is a safety issue for those who live in the Playa Negra and Playa Grande areas of Cahuita. And no one seems to care. A general belief is that pothole filling occurs twice a year in Cahuita, though I have been told it has been many years since that schedule was followed. Certain parts of Beach Road receive patchwork attention, but not consistently along the entire stretch.
Do the potholes serve as speed deterrents? Absolutely. However, the mental anguish, potential loss of tourists due to discomfort, taxi driver frustration, and traffic backups have made Beach Road conditions unbearable. There are tax-paying, established businesses and residents—like me—who reside on Beach Road and deserve thoroughfares that are maintained for the safety of the community.
Challenge #3 – Celebration of Enslavement
You might want to reread this challenge a few times because it is just that hard to believe. There is a large, distinctive restaurant on the main highway, Route 36, that expects people to happily dine in a replica of a ship that brought enslaved Africans to Cahuita. The Danish frigate Christianus Quintus V was a vessel that crashed in Cahuita in 1710. Hundreds of kidnapped Africans avoided bondage by escaping into the mountains of Talamanca.
Today, their strength and liberty hold deep meaning for the Afro-descendant community and for all people who respectfully take the time to research the history of Cahuita. The Christianus V eatery boasts its connection to this historical tragedy in an unsettling and troubling way. The owner bizarrely presumes that locals and visitors will dine in delight. I imagine these patrons would be equally merry while eating in a restaurant that replicated the gas chambers at Auschwitz. Lastly, there is a rumor that the owner plans to create living quarters at the bottom of the ship. Mercy, indeed.
Confucius left us with wise words that are applicable here:
“Learning without thought is labor lost; thought without learning is perilous.”
Challenge #4 – Appreciate Music, Not Noise
Cahuita loves music! Did you know the father of Costa Rican calypso is the late Cahuitan, Walter Ferguson? The diversity of tunes one hears while driving through town, shopping in stores, or visiting with people is fantastic.
One of the most popular places to enjoy a good meal, listen to live or recorded music, dance, or gaze at the sea is the Reggae Bar, located on Beach Road. If you don’t arrive before 10:00 p.m. on Friday nights, there is a very good chance you won’t find nearby parking.
So, what’s the itch? During the day, when one desires a beautiful view, hearty conversation, a delicious plate of gallo pinto, and a glass of agua de sapo (or hiel), the Reggae Bar’s music is often blasting so loudly that one can barely think—much less enjoy conversation without shouting. I (and others?) have learned to drive by and dine elsewhere. I suppose nearby residents have grown accustomed to this volume, despite the risk of Noise-Induced Hearing Loss (NIHL). Timing is everything; it’s reassuring that a new mini-hospital is being built within two miles of the Reggae Bar.
Challenge #5 – No Hoops. No Hope.
In 2024, FIBA research indicated that there are more than 3.3 billion basketball fans globally. Costa Ricans are part of that mix, and Ticos love hoops. More than fútbol? No. However, there is strong interest in Cahuita to increase engagement in a sport that is both fun to watch and play.
Children also need access to activities that foster hope for their future. Basketball teaches fitness, life skills, and leadership principles. So, where do we start? With a basketball court. There are zero public basketball courts in town.
Selfishly, I miss shooting around and playing the game that taught me so much. I would love to ride my e-trike to a court, put up a few shots, and reminisce about the good ol’ days. With a facility, Cahuita could further demonstrate its community spirit by bringing families and friends together through the shared experience of basketball.
It may seem confusing to point out my challenges with Cahuita in a public space when I love all that the town offers. Perhaps I am simply trying to redirect more expatriates elsewhere. Why? Cahuita is special, and I don’t want the population to grow much more. I want to delay the inevitable.
Cahuita’s slower pace—and its imperfections—suit me just fine. More cars, people, and bustle could easily ruin this not-so-secret secret. How about a compromise? Come visit Cahuita any time of year. Enjoy our natural world—the Cahuita National Park, coral reef, white and black sands, rainforest, monkeys, toucans, and turtles. Tell your loved ones about pura vida and the wonderful vacation.
Please just don’t stay.
“Never Too Far” contains perspectives and insights from an inquisitive and engaged Orange County transplant from Philly. Deborah Stroman is an entrepreneur and UNC leadership professor who has seen too much and not enough, and thus continues to question and explore the thoughts and actions of humankind.
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