This is one of the perks of doing a safari in Zambia rather than more touristed destinations such as Kenya or South Africa – and is possibly why David Attenborough and the crew of Kingdom chose Zambia for its epic four-year shoot.
Nkwali Camp, which I’d booked through experts Robin Pope Safaris (robinpopesafaris.net), gazes aristocratically down over a hippo-filled river, its collection of breezy wood-and-thatch cottages seemingly playing hide-and-seek with each other in a forest of ebony trees.
Browse this safari holiday from Newmarket Holidays & experience your own trip to AfricaWhen, within minutes of the beginning of my first drive, we come across a small herd of zebras, I wait for what I previously thought was the inevitable chug-chug-chug of a dozen other vehicles joining us – and it never comes.
Baboons eye you up curiously, their sprogs monkeying excitedly about for the cameras, thrilled to have such an appreciative audience; giraffes turn haughtily to face you, winking their doe eyes; skittish impalas bounce off as soon as they scent you, far enough down the food chain they think everything looks threatening; elephants stand four-square and purposeful in the middle of the dirt road, flaring their ears and trumpeting, daring you to try and drive round them – then mock-charging when you do, apparently well pleased with the alarmed squeals of a few timorous humans.
View oEmbed on the source websiteLess appealing, but just as memorable, was the skin of a dead elephant. The bones had been gnawed by jackals and hyenas, but vultures circled above the hide. Looking on were marabou storks, earning their “undertaker bird” nickname, with wings like grey Dickensian morning coats, and baleful expressions that sit well with their taste for carrion.
Request a brochure and get inspiration for your next holidayBack at Nkwali that evening, plates of buttery rice and delicately-seasoned tilapia cooked in banana leaf were abandoned mid-mouthful when three elephants strolled past the dining room to take advantage of the camp’s waterhole. The youngest, unable to stand in the deep water, doggy-paddled endearingly through the lake and into the hearts (and camera memory cards) of everyone watching.
It’s the winter thorns’ seedpods (as well as my plunge pool) that lure elephants into our quarters. So when nobody is looking, I gather a few of the pods and scatter them round the Albida Suite’s sitting room. Unlike Attenborough and pals, I haven’t got four years to hang around waiting for that perfect shot…
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