theSun visited three of them: Wild Coriander, Peranakan Place Signature and Cottage Spices, each with its own personality, quirks and flavour footprint.
Step into Wild Coriander and you will immediately notice how lived-in the space feels. Not messy, mind you, it is immaculate, but the decor, painted murals and little details have the unmistakable stamp of owners Raymond and Mani Sarah Cheah. Mani painted many of the walls herself, adding a warmth that you do not get from outsourced interior design.
The menu draws on the couple’s Baba and Chindian heritage, blending Chinese, Malay and Indian flavours. Signature dishes include Beef Rendang, Brinjal Pajeri from Mani’s mother’s recipe and Ayam Buah Keluak, a Peranakan speciality made with black nuts that taste somewhere between earthy truffles and “what happens if blue cheese went on a gap year”. It is an acquired taste, one that inspires love at first bite for some, polite nods for others.
Pro tip: Pair your meal with their Mango Lassi or seasonal Avocado Gula Melaka smoothie. And if you can, linger a bit, the space, with its leafy courtyard and historical touches, makes you want to slow down and stay awhile.
If Wild Coriander is the vibrant, colourful artist, then Peranakan Place Signature @ Heeren Street is the elegant, well-composed classicist. Housed in a beautifully preserved heritage building, the restaurant is a cool escape from Malacca’s sweltering streets.
The Assam Fish was bright and tangy without tipping into mouth-puckering sourness. The Chicken Sambal Petai struck that perfect balance between fiery sambal and the unmistakable aroma of stink beans. Honey Sotong, a house favourite, managed to be both sweet and savoury without feeling cloying. Even the blanched okra with sambal, a humble dish, was done with the kind of care usually reserved for centrepieces.
The atmosphere is serene, with ornate carvings, patterned tiles and a long dining table under a chandelier, perfect for a slow, lingering meal. Staff are warm and unhurried, encouraging you to enjoy the food at your own pace. After all, escaping the heat outside should be more than just about the air-conditioning, it is about stepping into another tempo entirely.
Cottage Spices is one of those places locals talk about with a mix of fondness and knowing nods. Tucked into a modest shophouse, it is family-run and operates with the quiet confidence of a kitchen that has been doing this for decades.
But the star here might just be the Nyonya Cendol. Served with thick, fragrant gula Melaka syrup, fresh coconut milk and bouncy green jelly noodles, it is the kind of dessert you could justify having as both a starter and a closer. Locals often pop in just for the cendol and a drink, a practice we fully endorse.
More than just recipes
Raymond and Mani at Wild Coriander are warm hosts who treat their decor like a personal gallery. Ng and Kwan at Peranakan Place uphold tradition with quiet confidence, letting the food speak for itself. The chef at Cottage Spices embodies the home-cooked Peranakan experience, where recipes are inherited, not improvised.
So if you find yourself in Malacca, skip the queues at the overly Instagrammed spots and make your way to one of these kitchens. Bring an appetite, a little patience and maybe a couple of extra friends, because like all good Peranakan meals, these are meant to be shared.
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