And, as a Leeds-based beer writer and tour guide, I’m no stranger to the pubs of God’s Own Country. From brewpubs to gastropubs, traditional country inns to modern city alehouses, here are some of my favourites.
West Yorkshire
The Adelphi in Leeds (Photo: ROBERTO GARAGARZA)The Adelphi, Leeds
For more than 50 years this was the de facto Tetley’s tap, where workers would slake their thirsts after long shifts in the nearby brewhouse and cooperage. And while Tetley’s, once the world’s largest producer of cask ale, closed in 2011 as owner Carlsberg shifted its focus elsewhere, the Tetley name remains in gold lettering above The Adelphi’s door.
To make a crawl of it, head across the bridge and into Briggate, where three pubs retain the geometry of a 13th-century street that once had more than 30. Dip into the narrow airless yards to find the Ship, Angel – and best-known of all – lovely Whitelock’s, which has been the beating heart of the city since Georgian times.
Shibden Mill Inn in Halifax (Photo: Provided)This whitewashed stone pub has catered for all-comers since the 1890s, and if the name sounds familiar, it may be because of Gentleman Jack. Nearby Shibden Hall was the estate owned by Anne Lister, whose life was celebrated in the BBC One series.
In the south-facing beer garden, the beck’s burble and splash provide a soporific soundtrack to conversation.
Pipe and Glass, South Dalton
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A few miles north of Beverley, the small village of South Dalton is home to the Pipe and Glass, a wonderful pub offering first-class accommodation, well-kept Yorkshire beers and Michelin-starred food, plus a range of gins from local Hooting Owl Distillery.
For generations, this has been a much-loved haunt for the locals. On warmer days, the picnic benches are a popular spot for a pint in the sunshine, surrounded by well-kept gardens.
The Goodmanham Arms in Goodmanham (Photo: Provided)Goodmanham Arms, Goodmanham
It’s certainly worth taking a jaunt off the beaten track to find this quirky, pokey, welcoming little inn with its roast dinners, interesting old photographs and bric-a-brac, log fires and great Yorkshire ales.
Hearty steak pies were the order of the day the last time I visited, and there’s a changing choice of real ales available. Hopefully one day soon Vito will also revive his own famous Peg Fyfe bitter that used to be brewed at the tiny All Hallow’s Brewery next door
North Yorkshire
Helmsley Brewing Co’s garden (Photo: Provided)Helmsley Brewing Co is another, and its tiny taproom just off the town’s marketplace is a splendid spot. The brewery, founded in 2014, doesn’t tend to do anything too outlandish with its beers. Instead it offers sessionable pales and golden ales, a stout and an IPA, plus a deep russet Classic Yorkshire Bitter. Only Helmsley Honey, rich with the produce of local hives, tempts drinkers towards less familiar territory.
White Horse and Griffin, Whitby
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Yorkshire’s towns and cities are blessed with atmospheric old taverns, some of which date back to the coaching inns that serviced the needs of passengers and horses during arduous journeys along the Great North Road and other historic routes. An archway entrance to a rear yard offering “good stabling” reveals Whitby’s White Horse and Griffin as one of these. Few bring their horses these days, but the White Horse and Griffin remains true to its time-honoured purpose, after a sensitive restoration gave it new life in the 1990s.
The luxurious Crown Hotel at Boroughbridge and stately red brick Golden Fleece at Thirsk are among a host of other North Yorkshire coaching inns re-invented for today.
South Yorkshire
Cricket Inn, Totley
The Cricket Inn, however, holds one of the most perfect pub spots in England. The drive south and west from Sheffield leads you along ever-narrower roads, past fields and through woodlands to the edge of the Peak District and an 18th-century stone pub whose beer garden spills onto the outfield of the neighbouring cricket field.
We’re in serious walking country; stunning Blacka Moor is close by and the views from the pub are as splendid as the well-kept Thornbridge ale and fine home-cooked food.
Music at Triple Point Brewery and Bar in Sheffield (Photo: Provided)Triple Point Brewing, Sheffield
Several are based a few minutes north of the city, but my favourite lies just south of it, where the Triple Point Brewing taproom serves no-nonsense pub grub and ales brewed on the premises. Glass screens offer drinkers a view of the busy brewhouse.
From here, it’s a couple of hefty goalkicks’ distance to Bramall Lane, the home of Sheffield United. The bar has a lively but benign pre-match atmosphere with home and away fans mingling over good beer, food and easy banter.
A former British Beer Writer of the Year, Simon Jenkins shares his passion for the subject through ‘beer and history’ walking tours in Leeds. To find out more, visit itsthebeertalking.co.uk
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