By Yewande Komolafe, The New York Times
I believe the first bite into a perfectly ripe mango has three parts: first, a humbling, then a flood of nostalgia and, finally, a restoration of spirit. This is the power of a great mango.
They knock us off our pedestals. No matter how nimble an eater you may be, there’s a mango out there waiting to defy your hands and lips. Forego all politeness. A sticky mess awaits.
When I bite into one, I compare that initial sweetness to the tart and acidic flavors that build as I get closer to the seed. But I am also judging the mango in my hand against some elusive one I remember. I have a lot of room in my imagination for mangoes.
Great mangoes can elicit powerful memories. It takes a special fruit to ease the tension of a moment, connecting us both to a past season and to the promise of the next bounty. For me, the mango is that fruit. And the three recipes here (a salad, a dessert and a savory relish) give you something creative to do with your remaining mangoes — after you’ve devoured the first few you’ve brought back from the market.
Writing these recipes, as it is for all dishes that center mangoes, was a sticky business. Some ingredients are predictable, easy to control — but how little control we have over mangoes. Each is a surprise, shaped by the characteristics of its original region. There’s no homogeneity.
Some mangoes are sweeter than others, some are more fibrous. But the best ones are always ready to send juice dripping down your chin, buttery, tart, immediately transporting you to wherever you may have had your favorite: West Africa, Southeast Asia, Mexico and the Caribbean, the Pacific Islands, or some grove you know nearby.
I remember drives along highways in southwest Nigeria that threaded through mango groves, both sides lined with green canopies dotted with copper orbs. The leaves’ evergreen essence and the ripe fruit’s floral bouquet hung in the thick air. It took me years to build up the courage to bite into one after I moved to the United States. Growing up in Lagos, we would bite into them as a New Yorker bites into an apple, devouring them skin and all, right down to the core. But here, the skin of most fruit is not always considered a pleasure in the same way.
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Throughout my career, I’ve resisted the urge to compare ingredients to one another. But if mangoes share anything with tomatoes, now coming into season themselves, it’s that the best ones bring unpredictable flavors. This simple salad, anchored by delicate greens and vinegar, will suit any style of mango, whether slightly under ripe or those that are much further along, creamy, sticky-sweet ones.
If it is a mango’s sweetness that entices you, my mango shortcake will be your favorite. What better way to complement the crumbly texture of a great shortcake than a perfectly ripe mango, gently dotted with citrus zest and coconut toasted to enhance its fragrance and nuttiness.
The last recipe is for the end of mango season because your memory of the fruit shouldn’t be the only thing that lingers. This relish lets you savor it for at least another month or two, and will work well with anything from off-the-grill chicken, fish or to toasted crusts of ciabatta or focaccia.
My hope for you is that you will be inspired to stretch the mango as an ingredient, one that resists predictability. If you have great mangoes on hand, the moment is now.
Recipe: Mango-Tomato Salad
Mango-Tomato Salad. Let Yewande Komolafe's recipes — for a mango shortcake, a tomato-mango salad and a hot, savory relish — extend the best part of the year. Props styled by Paige Hicks. Food styled by Samantha Seneviratne. (Kelly Marshall, The New York Times)This simple salad, anchored from veering too sweet by delicate greens and just-tart vinegar, will suit any style of mango. A hearty knife and fork salad, it’s great as a full lunch or alongside other vegetables or meats, with each bite highlighting the ingredients’ simplicity.
By Yewande Komolafe
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
For the Vinaigrette:
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 1 teaspoon whole-grain Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon honey 1/4 cup neutral oil, such as canola, grapeseed or safflower Salt and pepperFor the Salad:
2 just-ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted and cut into 1/2-inch slices, and crosswise in half 1 medium shallot, peeled and minced 12 ounces tender-leaf lettuce, such as butter lettuce or romaine hearts, leaves separated, rinsed and patted dry 12 ounces heirloom tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch slices, then cut crosswise in half (about 2 loose cups) 1/3 cup fresh mint, torn A small bunch of chives (about 6 to 8), cut into 1-inch-long sticksPreparation
1. Make the vinaigrette: Add the apple cider vinegar in a large bowl. Whisk in the mustard and honey, and slowly drizzle in the oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
2. Make the salad: To the bowl, add the mango and shallot, and toss to combine. Add in the lettuce and toss again. Transfer the salad to a serving platter, leaving behind any dressing. Add the tomato and herbs to the bowl, and toss with the remaining dressing. Season with salt and pepper, and tuck the tomato slices and herbs in the salad. Serve immediately.
Recipe: Mango Shortcakes With Lime-Coconut Cream
Mango Shortcakes With Lime-Coconut Cream. Let Yewande Komolafe's recipes — for a mango shortcake, a tomato-mango salad and a hot, savory relish — extend the best part of the year. Props styled by Paige Hicks. Food styled by Samantha Seneviratne. (Kelly Marshall, The New York Times)If mango’s sweetness entices you, you’ll love this shortcake. What better way to complement the soft but sturdy crumb of a great shortcake, rich with salted butter and tender with buttermilk, with chunks of just-ripe mango. The pairing, gently dotted with lime zest and topped with a fluff of toasted coconut whipped cream for nuttiness, is a perfect summer dessert.
By Yewande Komolafe
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Total time: 1 hour 10 minutes, plus chilling and cooling
Ingredients
For the Shortcakes:
3 cups/370 grams all-purpose flour 1/2 cup/100 grams sugar, plus more for sprinkling 1/4 cup/21 grams unsweetened shredded coconut 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt (such as Diamond Crystal) 1 cup/227 grams cold salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 whole egg, separated 1/4 cup/60 milliliters buttermilkFor the Filling:
3 just-ripe medium mangoes, cut 1/2-inch cubes (18 ounces, about 2 1/2 cups) 1/4 cup/50 grams sugar 1 lime Pinch of kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) 1/4 teaspoon black pepperFor the Whipped Cream:
1/4 cup/21 grams unsweetened shredded coconut 1 cup/240 milliliters heavy whipping cream 1/4 cup/50 grams sugarPreparation
1. Prepare the shortcakes: Line a 9-by-13-inch baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, 1/2 cup sugar, 1/4 shredded coconut, baking powder, baking soda and salt, and whisk to incorporate. Working quickly and using your fingers or a pastry cutter, rub the cold butter into the dry mixture. Cut the butter into the flour until the pieces are the size of small pebbles. (Alternatively, use a food processor to pulse the dry ingredients with the butter.)
2. Make a well in the center of the bowl. Add the egg yolk, stirring with a wooden spoon to incorporate. Add the buttermilk a tablespoon at a time until a shaggy dough forms.
3. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and press the clumps together until they form a slightly uniform piece. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour. Pat or roll the dough into an 8-inch square and, using a sharp knife or bench scraper, cut into 12 squares. Transfer the shortcakes to the prepared baking sheet, cover and chill the squares in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours.
4. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a small bowl, whisk the reserved egg white with 2 tablespoons room temperature water. Brush the dough with the egg white-water mixture and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until cooked through, rotating the baking sheet once, about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the shortcakes from the oven and allow to cool completely on a rack set inside a baking sheet.
5. Prepare the filling: In a medium bowl, combine the mango with 1/4 cup sugar. Using a grater or Microplane, zest the lime right into the bowl and add the juice from the lime. Add a pinch of salt and the black pepper. Combine with a spoon or spatula, and set aside or refrigerate.
6. Make the whipped cream: On a parchment-lined sheet pan, scatter 1/4 cup coconut and toast in the 325-degree oven for 3 minutes. Cool completely.
7. To the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, add the heavy whipping cream and 1/4 cup sugar. Mix on medium-high speed until smooth and fluffy, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the toasted coconut to the whipped cream, and mix it in gently.
8. Serve: Once completely cooled, cut each shortcake in half crosswise. Top the bottom halves with 2 spoonfuls of mango. Drizzle over some syrup from the bowl, and top with coconut whipped cream and the other half of the shortcakes.
Recipe: Mango Pepper Relish
Mango Pepper Relish. Let Yewande Komolafe's recipes — for a mango shortcake, a tomato-mango salad and a hot, savory relish — extend the best part of the year. Props styled by Paige Hicks. Food styled by Samantha Seneviratne. (Kelly Marshall, The New York Times)This savory relish extends mango’s reach beyond its season — because your memories of the fruit shouldn’t be the only thing that lingers. Here, mangoes, bell peppers and hot chile are simmered in a syrup of lime juice and sugar for a condiment that pops with citrus and heat. Pair it with off-the-grill chicken or fish, dot it on creamy cheese or dollop it on toasted bread. This relish will keep refrigerated for up to 10 days and frozen for up to 2 months.
By Yewande Komolafe
Yield: 8 servings (3 1/2 cups)
Total time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Ingredients
3 slightly firm but ripe mangoes (about 3 pounds), peeled, pitted and cut into 1/4-inch cubes (about 5 cups) 2 limes 3/4 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 2 medium red bell peppers, stemmed and finely diced (2 1/2 cups) 1 small red onion, peeled and finely diced (1 cup) 1 red or green Scotch bonnet or 2 bird’s-eye chiles, stemmed and cut in half, with seeds in or out 1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegarPreparation
1. In a medium bowl, combine the mangoes and the zest and juice of 1 lime. Add 1/4 cup sugar, the salt and black pepper. Combine using a spatula or wooden spoon.
2. In a medium, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, combine the bell pepper, onion, Scotch bonnet, rice vinegar and the remaining 1/2 cup sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the syrup thickens and the relish goes from a rapid boil to slow bubbling, about 15 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium and continue to cook until the liquid looks syrupy, about 3 minutes.
3. Once the pepper-onion mixture is syrupy, add the mango mixture to the pot and allow to simmer, stirring occasionally to combine. Continue to cook until the mixture thickens and large, slow bubbles begin to appear, 5 to 7 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook for another 3 minutes for a runnier relish or up to 6 minutes if you prefer a thicker relish. Taste and adjust with more lime juice and salt as needed. (Adding lime juice will thin the relish, but it does thicken as it cools.) The relish can be stored refrigerated for up to 4 weeks and will thicken once chilled.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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