Twenty-nine houses showed off collections during Couture Week, which wrapped up on Thursday (Jan 30), following Men’s Fashion Week last week.
Dior chief designer Maria Grazia Chiuri said her Spring-Summer 2025 collection was inspired by “the creativity of past centuries”, making the Italian one of several artistic directors who was looking back for inspiration.
Daniel Roseberry, chief designer at Parisian house Schiaparelli, sent out models including Kendall Jenner in a range featuring corsets prominently, saying he had been inspired by ribbons he discovered from the 1920s and 30s.
Escapism
But just like everyone else, designers have the rapidly shifting and unpredictable nature of our world on their minds.
“The message of this collection is about escaping from our hectic world. I imagined this beautiful island, far from the cities, far from technology, far from the world that we live in right now, a peaceful world,“ he said.
But as conflicts rage from Ukraine to Congo and Sudan, French designer Franck Sorbier tackled war and peace directly in a theatrical show that combined music, singing and dance.
It ended with a “peace” phase and concluded with Sorbier appearing in a black anorak bearing the words “peace and love”.
Eccentric Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf riffed on technology and the advent of our worrisome AI-powered era by sending out 24 variations of the same outfit, announced each time with the same slightly robotic voice.
Change at the top
British designer Stella McCartney announced Monday her departure from the LVMH group, while Belgian designer Glenn Martens was appointed artistic director Wednesday (Jan 30) at Maison Margiela to succeed John Galliano.
Chanel is currently in flux, with its latest show crafted by the brand’s creative studio following the sudden departure of artistic director Virginie Viard in June.
Legs out
This season, several designers from Chanel to Giambattista Valli sent out white dresses that were short at the front and long at the back.
Jean Paul Gaultier’s collection featured a full-length feathered gown that was highly transparent, also leaving the legs prominently visible.
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