Over the years, Marina Pinto Kaufman has become the keeper of Spanish Moroccan food traditions for her cousins, children and friends, inviting them to her home in New York City, and now, Martha’s Vineyard, for the Jewish holidays, especially Rosh Hashana and Passover. And her legumbres para rosana, a colorful mostly vegetable dish, is often on the table. Kaufman, 84, told me that, after the Inquisition, her ancestors settled in Tétouan, then part of Spanish Morocco, bringing with them customs from Spain. “In Morocco, recipes were very important to the status of a cook and her family,” she said. “Often home cooks guarded their recipes so much that they would purposely forget to share ingredie
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