All day, ferries come and go, depositing hundreds of people onto the tiny Italian island of Capri. The tourists cram into restaurants and shops and stand in snaking lines for a scoop of a gelato or a ride on the funicular. The pedestrian traffic is stop-and-start. And then the magic hour arrives. In the early evening, the last ferry departs, signaling a changing of the guard. The day-trippers are gone, and the overnight guests start emerging from their self-imposed isolation. They reclaim Capri, at least for the night. If you come in the evening, you’ll see a completely different island, residents say. One that’s more chic and relaxed, with more gowns and hair down. It’s another g
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