The quest for authenticity is perhaps the central obsession of modern food culture. Food today is a vehicle not only for sustenance or pleasure, but for a certain type of truth—for tastes and sensations that are true to their place and the experience of their creators. It would be a mistake to regard this quest as novel. In 1654, Nicolas de Bonnefons, a valet at the court of Louis XIV, published The Delights of the Country, a work of gastronomic philosophy containing a simple but revolutionary principle. “A cabbage soup,” he wrote, “should smell of cabbage; if it is made of leeks or turnips, then it should smell of leeks or turnips, and so forth.” Until that point, cooks had masked the main
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