Part I Soutei-Gai Northeastern Japan By the time I arrive at Ishinomaki, eleven years have passed since one of the most horrific catastrophes in modern history. Like millions of others around the globe, I had watched and rewatched hundreds of witness videos, spending hours descending down a rabbit hole of some foreign grief. I had read the news reports and books, listened to recordings of survivors’ stories, mined the academic literature, and spoken with dozens of experts. There was nothing that could have prepared me for what I hear and see here. Now, I sit cross-legged amid the earthy scent of tatami mats in the Dogenin Temple, drinking iced yellow tea and listening as the sof
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