As a food writer, I love the magnitude of a Thanksgiving dinner. As a human garbage can with the dietary pickiness of a goat, I love the grazing culture of a New Year’s Eve party—specifically, salty snacks, like pigs in a blanket. This year, as you unleash pastry from its pressurized tubes, I’m suggesting a delightful twist on this classic New Year’s nosh. Give your piggies a break, and make pickles in a blanket. Pigs in a blanket works because those little hot dogs are concentrated parcels of salt, fat, and umami. Wrap them in strips of buttery pastry and you’ve got doubly rich, hand-held bites that pair well with a beer. They’re great, but all that salt and fat can get overwhelming. Swap o
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