Cooking shrimp until well-browned without overcooking can be a difficult needle to thread. To help with this, we often coat the delicate seafood with an aromatic marinade using ingredients that speed browning, such as sugar or fat. We include both in a puree for this recipe from our book “Cook What You Have,” which draws on pantry staples to assemble easy, weeknight meals. And then we use the puree two ways. First, we make a quick blend of garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs — scallions, parsley, cilantro, basil or any combination will taste great. Some of the puree we use as a marinade mixed with just half a teaspoon of white sugar, which is enough to boost the browning without tasting outrig
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