On a freezing weekend in late autumn, in a crowded upscale district of northern Tehran, 60 men and women are sitting next to each other at the main conference hall of a non-governmental organisation (NGO) that holds courses on mental health and individual development. What may strike the observer is the contrast in the dress style of participants, ranging from colourful headscarves and stylish garments to the Muslim chador veil. Organisers regularly call on some women who have let their scarves slip over their shoulders to cover their hair, but the scarves go up to be let down minutes later. At 8 o’clock sharp, music is played before the new course starts. "Almost ev
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