In my native language, Farsi, we often attach the word “Jan” to the end of a person’s name as a term of endearment. Translated literally, Jan means “soul,” and it’s reserved for the living beings we most love and respect. It’s not a word used to describe places, with one exception: Afghanistan’s capital is known as Kabul Jan. Kabul Jan has witnessed four decades of conflict. It is a burial site for thousands killed by car bombs, including many I knew. But it is also the city that, in the early years of this century, gave me and many others of my generation opportunities we never imagined we could have. It was a place that allowed us to fight for what we wanted. It was also the first an
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