“Salah al-Din Citadel in Islamic Cairo” | Photo Credit: Dennis Jarvis via Wikimedia Commons Saladin paces the corridors, bracing his unwavering, intense devotion on the back of an army as he lines blueprints for a citadel. Centuries later, Muhammed Ali dines in a great hall—flanked by men and a conduit of ill-will. He will pinch a grape between two fingers and hail the end of the Mamluks; they will not leave his citadel standing. A carved, double-headed vulture, sits on the Western wall as an unspeaking witness to a massacre. Today, the athan (call to prayer) rumbles through Cairo’s highlands and the iftar cannon fires on sultry Ramadan evenings. At the heart of it all is a single structure:
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