Nandine: South London’s Kurdish culinary gem deserves all the hype ...Yemen

The large, flavourful Kurdish plates at Nandine paint a much fuller story of Kurdistan than those in the West typically encounter. Talk of Kurdistan, the Middle Eastern region that encompasses parts of Iraq, Syria, Turkey, Armenia and Iran, usually brings to mind a limited narrative derived from headlines of ethno-political conflict, violent struggles for independence and the generally bleak epilogue of colonisation. Nandine does not exist in the abstract; its impressive origin story begins with its admirable matriarch/head chef, Pary Baban, fleeing her northern Iraqi hometown of Qaladze in the late ‘80s while she was still a teenager living under Saddam Hussein’s regime. On her journey from

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